Inside the World of Nōksu: Chef Dae Kim’s Subterranean Culinary Vision

A Culinary Journey Below the Surface

Beneath the bustling streets of Manhattan, where trains rumble and commuters rush by, something extraordinary simmers just out of sight. Hidden inside the 32nd Street subway station in Koreatown is Nōksu—an unassuming yet captivating tasting counter that’s redefining what it means to dine in New York City.

At the heart of this intimate, 14-seat experience is Chef Dae Kim, whose culinary artistry fuses Korean roots with global sensibilities. His approach is precise, introspective, and quietly daring, crafting dishes that speak volumes even in their minimalism. Nōksu is not just a restaurant—it’s a moment suspended between tradition and invention, hidden in plain sight.

The Story Behind the Concept

The origins of Nōksu are rooted in both boldness and humility. Situated in a surprisingly stark space within the Herald Square subway station, the restaurant turns the chaos of its surroundings into part of its charm. For Chef Dae Kim, this wasn’t just a logistical decision—it was a statement. Choosing a location so removed from the typical fine-dining playbook allowed him to create something truly focused, unfiltered, and distinct.

Nōksu, which means “ink” in Korean, evokes a sense of mystery and depth. Much like the ink that tells a story on paper, each dish on the menu reveals something of Kim’s personal narrative—one shaped by Korean traditions, New York grit, and an appreciation for the quiet power of nuance.

A Chef’s Culinary Philosophy

Chef Dae Kim is a technician, but he’s also a storyteller. His cuisine balances structure with spontaneity, precision with emotion. Every tasting menu at Nōksu is curated with intention, exploring Korean flavors without being confined by them. Fermentation plays a key role—echoing age-old techniques—but is often paired with unexpected elements, like sea urchin or dry-aged fish.

This is a chef who doesn't chase spectacle. Instead, Kim’s focus is on discipline, restraint, and rhythm—values honed through years of experience in top kitchens and tempered by his own introspective disposition. At Nōksu, luxury comes in the form of thoughtfulness: the kind that lingers long after the last course is served.

What Makes the Menu Special

While many modern tasting counters lean heavily on theatrics or elaborate presentations, Nōksu takes a refreshingly different approach. The experience unfolds slowly, intimately, with no menus handed out at the start. Instead, diners are invited to trust the chef—and the process.

The menu shifts often, following not only the seasons but also Kim’s evolving curiosity. One course might include a meticulously cured scallop touched with a whisper of sesame oil, while another might offer beef brisket reinterpreted through the lens of jjim—a traditional Korean braising method.

Plating is clean, minimal, almost architectural. And while the flavors draw from Korea’s deep culinary history, the execution feels distinctly modern. It’s this marriage of reverence and reinvention that gives Nōksu its voice.

A Hidden Gem in Koreatown

New York is known for its hidden dining experiences—speakeasies, pop-ups, and rooftop gems. But Nōksu offers something different: a space that feels both secret and sacred. Guests descend below the city’s surface to discover not just a restaurant, but a new perspective.

Located just off the B/D/F/M subway lines, the restaurant embraces its underground setting rather than trying to disguise it. Its sleek black interiors, quiet lighting, and narrow layout make it feel like a passageway to another world—a stark contrast to the noisy station just outside.

It’s a dining experience that requires effort to find and patience to understand, which is exactly what makes it so rewarding.

The Man Behind the Counter

Before opening Nōksu, Chef Dae Kim’s career spanned several acclaimed kitchens. His training included time at Daniel and Atomix—two restaurants that shaped his sense of balance between French rigor and Korean storytelling. But it was the idea of creating something uniquely personal, free from external expectations, that eventually led him to strike out on his own.

Soft-spoken and analytical, Kim sees food not just as sustenance, but as a language. Each course he serves is part of a dialogue—not just between chef and guest, but also between past and present, East and West, structure and instinct.

For Kim, Nōksu is a culmination of everything he’s learned—but also a beginning. It’s a space where he can continue to ask questions, explore techniques, and push the boundaries of what modern Korean food can be.

Looking Ahead: The Future of Underground Dining

As diners increasingly seek out experiences that are intimate, unconventional, and grounded in story, places like Nōksu are gaining attention. But Chef Dae Kim isn’t chasing fame. His focus remains firmly on the craft—on refining, evolving, and listening to his own voice.

There’s talk of future seasonal collaborations and ingredient-focused experiments, but for now, Kim’s mission is clear: keep showing up, keep cooking with honesty, and let the dishes speak for themselves.

Conclusion: Dining Where Least Expected

Nōksu is more than a restaurant—it’s a reflection of how far culinary spaces have come. It challenges traditional ideas of location, luxury, and performance. In a world where attention spans are short and experiences are often commodified, Chef Dae Kim invites diners to slow down, dig deep, and look closer.