How Casa Enrique and Chef Cosme Aguilar Put Authentic Mexican Cuisine on NYC’s Michelin Map
Discover how Chef Cosme Aguilar’s memories of Chiapas family barbacoa inspired Casa Enrique — New York’s first Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant — and how it’s redefining Mexican dining in the city.
From Chiapas to New York: A Culinary Journey Rooted in Family
Long before Chef Cosme Aguilar earned New York City’s first Michelin star for a Mexican restaurant, he was a boy in Cintalapa, Chiapas — a region marked by warm mountains, bustling family kitchens, and recipes that traveled through generations. Sundays in Aguilar’s childhood weren’t spent in fancy dining rooms but in backyards turned into makeshift smokehouses, where whole families gathered to butcher, prepare, and slowly roast barbacoa in clay ovens.
That ritual — visceral, raw, and honest — left a lasting impression on Aguilar. The memories of his mother tending the oven, his siblings helping with preparation, and the unmistakable aroma of rich, smoky meat transformed his understanding of what Mexican food could mean: not just sustenance, but shared heritage.
Years later, these early lessons would find new life in Long Island City at Casa Enrique, the restaurant that quietly reshaped the city’s idea of Mexican dining. Aguilar’s mission wasn’t to revolutionize Mexican cuisine — it was simply to honor it with the same care his mother showed every Sunday.
The Story Behind Casa Enrique: A Neighborhood Gem with Global Recognition
When Casa Enrique opened its doors in 2012, Long Island City was on the cusp of transformation — shifting from a quiet Queens neighborhood to a hotbed for creative energy and food innovation. Amid trendy newcomers, Aguilar’s modest restaurant stood out not for flashy reinventions but for its unwavering commitment to tradition.
Cosme Aguilar, alongside his brother Luis, built Casa Enrique to feel like an extension of their family kitchen. The focus was clear: honest flavors, deep roots, and the kind of warmth that turns strangers into regulars.
The result? Dishes that evoke southern Mexico — handmade tortillas, slow-braised meats, fresh salsas, and deeply comforting stews — all made with the meticulous care Aguilar learned watching his mother cook. This dedication didn’t just attract neighborhood families; it caught the attention of critics too. In 2015, Casa Enrique became New York’s first Mexican restaurant to earn a coveted Michelin star — a milestone that redefined the city’s fine-dining map.
A Chef’s Philosophy: No Shortcuts, Just Soul
Aguilar’s approach to cooking is deceptively straightforward: source the best ingredients, respect the techniques, and never take shortcuts. While some chefs chase avant-garde trends, he turns to family recipes scribbled in old notebooks or tucked away in memory.
His barbacoa, for example, is a nod to Chiapas — slow-cooked lamb or goat, marinated with dried chilies and spices, wrapped in banana leaves, and roasted until tender. While New Yorkers might expect tiny tweaks or fusion flourishes, Aguilar’s version stays true to form — rustic, flavorful, and exactly like something you’d find on a Sunday in Cintalapa.
This philosophy extends to every plate — from ceviches bursting with citrus and spice to tamales that feel handmade and homely. For Aguilar, cooking isn’t about making food fancy. It’s about making it real.
What Makes the Menu Special: A Taste of Chiapas in Queens
Casa Enrique’s menu is refreshingly focused, offering a tight selection of dishes that tell a clear story of where Aguilar comes from. Each item reveals his respect for the recipes he grew up with.
Barbacoa de Borrego
This signature dish is perhaps the closest link to Aguilar’s Chiapas Sundays — lamb marinated overnight, slow-cooked until it falls apart, and served with warm tortillas, chopped onions, cilantro, and spicy salsa.
Mole de Piaxtla
Mole is often the litmus test of a great Mexican kitchen, and Casa Enrique’s version is rich and layered, made with chilies, chocolate, nuts, and spices ground into a silky sauce that cloaks tender chicken.
Ceviche de Pescado
Bright and clean, this ceviche showcases fresh white fish cured in lime juice, tossed with tomatoes, onions, and avocado — a light counterpoint to the restaurant’s heartier plates.
Cochinita Pibil
A nod to the Yucatán, this slow-roasted pork is marinated with achiote and citrus, then cooked until melt-in-your-mouth tender. The pickled onions and habanero salsa on the side bring heat and tang that balance the rich meat.
Tres Leches Cake
No meal at Casa Enrique feels complete without a sweet ending — and the tres leches is a customer favorite, light yet decadent, just like the meals Aguilar remembers from family celebrations.
Building Community, One Table at a Time
Part of what makes Casa Enrique feel so special isn’t just the food — it’s the spirit of family that runs through the space. Aguilar is known for checking in with diners, greeting regulars by name, and encouraging his team to treat guests like old friends.
In a city famous for trends and celebrity chefs, Casa Enrique remains humbly grounded. Its brick walls and unfussy décor are reminders that the restaurant’s real luxury isn’t design — it’s authenticity.
Aguilar’s brother Luis plays a crucial role too, managing the business side while Cosme steers the kitchen. Together, they’ve turned Casa Enrique into a gathering place for Queens locals, Mexican expats craving a taste of home, and culinary tourists eager to taste why this little spot holds a Michelin star.
What Casa Enrique’s Success Means for Mexican Dining
For decades, Mexican food in America was often relegated to stereotypes: cheap tacos, bottomless chips, or Tex-Mex hybrids stripped of regional nuance. Casa Enrique flipped that script, showing that deeply regional Mexican cuisine deserves the same stage as French or Italian fine dining.
Cosme Aguilar didn’t set out to chase accolades. Yet in staying true to his mother’s way — cooking with patience, care, and community in mind — he sparked a quiet revolution that inspired new chefs to lean into authenticity too.
Conclusion: Keeping the Clay Oven Burning
Today, when diners bite into Aguilar’s barbacoa or savor his mole, they’re tasting more than a meal. They’re tasting Chiapas Sundays, clay ovens, and a family that found a way to keep tradition alive thousands of miles away.
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