Tagmo’s Surbhi Sahni: How Queerness, Culture, and Hospitality Intertwine in NYC’s Seaport

Where a Tigress Roars — And Welcomes All

Step inside Tagmo, tucked in New York’s Seaport District, and you’ll immediately sense that this is not your typical Indian restaurant. Emerald lamps draped in golden fringe cast a warm glow over jewel-toned booths splashed in vivid pinks and blues. On one wall, a majestic tigress watches over the dining room, a bold emblem of strength, beauty, and the spirit behind Tagmo’s name — which means “tigress” in Bhutanese.

At the heart of this colorful space is Chef Surbhi Sahni, whose approach to hospitality is rooted as much in her identity as a queer South Asian woman as it is in her decades of culinary mastery. Tagmo isn’t just a place to eat — it’s a declaration that true hospitality is inclusive, fearless, and deeply personal.

The Story Behind Tagmo: From Kitchens to Community

Before launching Tagmo, Surbhi Sahni was already a respected name in New York’s culinary circles. Her career spans celebrated kitchens, acclaimed pastry work, and collaborations that have shaped the city’s South Asian food landscape. But with Tagmo, she carved out something entirely her own: a space where food and identity intertwine freely.

Opening in late 2021, Tagmo quickly made waves not just for its bold flavors but for its mission — to present regional Indian cooking in a way that feels like stepping into someone’s home kitchen rather than a templated “modern Indian” concept. Sahni’s vision also includes dismantling stale ideas about “authenticity” by embracing the diversity of South Asian home cooking, shaped by countless communities and families.

But the mission is more layered than that. For Sahni, who came out later in life, Tagmo is also a space that unapologetically affirms queer presence and celebrates chosen family. She channels the same warmth she once found in her own mother’s kitchen — now extended to a diverse, modern New York dining room.

A Chef’s Philosophy: Radical Hospitality Rooted in Self

Sahni’s idea of hospitality is refreshingly radical in an industry that often defaults to rigid service norms. At Tagmo, hospitality means meeting each diner exactly as they are. It’s not just about the perfect table setting or beautifully plated dishes — though both are here in abundance. It’s about creating a space where people feel seen, respected, and nourished on multiple levels.

Her philosophy also challenges assumptions about South Asian dining. Instead of leaning into clichés, she focuses on lesser-known regional dishes that reflect India’s vast culinary quilt. From Kashmiri stews to Bengali sweets to Punjabi comfort food, each dish on the menu is rooted in tradition but filtered through Sahni’s modern, deeply personal lens.

What’s on the Menu: Homey, Surprising, and Deeply Satisfying

Tagmo’s menu is a love letter to South Asian regional cooking — the kind you rarely see on typical NYC menus dominated by North Indian restaurant classics. Sahni draws from family recipes, research trips, and memories of her upbringing, curating a rotating selection that’s vibrant, layered, and distinctly hers.

 Regional Thalis

A highlight for many diners is Tagmo’s rotating thalis — beautifully arranged platters that feature small tastes of multiple dishes from a particular region. Think slow-cooked lentils, fragrant rice, seasonal pickles, and handmade breads all in one meal that tells a story of place and tradition.

Rich Curries and Stews

Standouts include lamb or goat curries simmered for hours in spice-laden gravies and vegetarian dishes that celebrate humble ingredients like lentils, eggplant, or okra transformed into hearty, flavorful stews.

Playful Starters

The small plates nod to India’s vast street food culture: crisp fritters, spiced nuts, and bright, tangy chaats that pair perfectly with cocktails or chai.

The Sweets

Before opening Tagmo, Sahni was widely known for her pastry skills — and she’s brought that expertise to the restaurant’s dessert program. Expect refined versions of classic Indian sweets like barfi, ladoo, and innovative seasonal treats that blend South Asian flavors with modern techniques.

Design and Decor: A Reflection of Bold Identity

If the menu feels deeply personal, so does the space itself. Tagmo’s décor is a striking mix of jewel tones, warm textures, and symbolic art — a visual homage to Sahni’s belief that queerness is not something hidden but something to be celebrated out loud.

The mural of the tigress, for example, represents both the restaurant’s name and Sahni’s own journey of strength and self-acceptance. The playful colors and cozy banquettes make the dining room feel intimate but alive, a perfect backdrop for the vibrant flavors on each plate.

Beyond the Dining Room: Community at the Core

For Sahni, Tagmo is as much about community as it is about cuisine. The restaurant has become a gathering spot for LGBTQ+ diners, South Asian queer creatives, and allies who find not just great food but genuine hospitality and connection.

Sahni also hosts workshops, talks, and events that spotlight queer and South Asian voices. In a food industry where inclusion often feels performative, Tagmo’s commitment to real representation is clear — from the kitchen staff to the stories shared over meals.

Why Tagmo Matters in Today’s Dining Landscape

Tagmo’s success is not just about serving excellent food; it’s about expanding what a restaurant can mean in 2024 and beyond. As diners grow more mindful of the values behind the meals they eat, Sahni’s approach — to center queerness, culture, and radical care — feels especially urgent.

By presenting homestyle regional dishes, she reclaims the complexity of South Asian cuisines often flattened by mainstream menus. By owning her identity fully, she invites others to find belonging in her space. And by leading with warmth, she shows that true hospitality is as much about heart as it is about skill.

Conclusion: A Tigress, A Table, A Statement

In a city packed with celebrated Indian restaurants, Tagmo stands out by refusing to play it safe. Under Surbhi Sahni’s leadership, it is not just a place to taste beautifully crafted food — it’s an open invitation to experience how queerness, heritage, and hospitality can intersect in bold, joyful ways.