Mắm NYC: A Culinary Journey from Fermentation to Fame

The Story Behind the Concept

In the heart of Manhattan's Lower East Side, tucked into the vibrant culinary corridor of Forsyth Street, a compact yet buzzing restaurant has emerged as a modern-day Vietnamese culinary beacon—Mắm. More than just a catchy name, "Mắm" refers to a class of fermented ingredients—usually fish or shrimp—that forms the flavorful backbone of Vietnamese cuisine. The restaurant is both a tribute and an embodiment of this deeply traditional element, and its creation reflects a love story, a cultural bridge, and a pivot born of crisis.

The origins of Mắm trace back to 2020, a time when the world stood still. For chef Jerald Head, it marked a significant turning point. Having just left his role as chef de cuisine at the acclaimed Di An Di in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Head began working on a culinary book. His subject? Mắm—the umami-rich fermented base that imparts unmistakable depth to Vietnamese dishes. Though the book would never be completed, it laid the foundation for something far more visceral and impactful.

When Personal Life Fuels a Culinary Pivot

Jerald’s journey took a transformative turn when his wife, Nhung Dao, relocated to the U.S. from Vietnam. With her arrival came more than just companionship—it brought with it authentic Vietnamese home cooking, deeply rooted in family traditions and regional specialties. Together, the couple began preparing one of their favorite dishes: bún đậu mắm tôm, a textured tray of rice noodles served with golden fried tofu, housemade blood sausage, fresh herbs, and fermented shrimp paste that awakens every taste receptor.

What started in the intimate setting of their Brooklyn apartment soon evolved into something larger. Encouraged by friends and former colleagues, they began testing the waters with pop-ups—one of the earliest being at Di An Di itself. Then, an opportunity arose in September 2020: a semi-permanent setup inside the old Bếp Gà location in the Lower East Side. The couple seized the moment and named their venture Mắm, reviving the original title of Jerald’s unfinished book.

From Pop-Up Passion to Permanent Presence

In a time when countless restaurants shuttered due to the pandemic, Mắm defied the odds. The duo’s intimate pop-ups struck a chord with the city's food lovers, earning rave reviews and consistent demand. Their authenticity, refusal to dilute flavors for mainstream acceptance, and an unmistakable passion for craft caught attention.

By late 2023, Mắm had grown into a fully-fledged brick-and-mortar restaurant. The charm of its humble beginnings lives on in its compact yet character-rich space. Blue stools pop against earthy wooden accents, while Vietnamese pantry staples like Red Boat fish sauce and Southern Star condensed milk cans are displayed like culinary trophies.

The couple also expanded into the adjacent space, allowing them to accommodate more diners without sacrificing the close-knit vibe that made them special. Even so, the restaurant retains a refreshingly unpretentious atmosphere—more akin to a home kitchen than a fine-dining venue.

A Chef’s Culinary Philosophy

Jerald Head isn’t one to chase trends or pander to Westernized expectations of Asian cuisine. For him and Nhung, the goal has always been clarity of flavor, cultural integrity, and respect for Vietnamese culinary traditions. Ingredients are treated with reverence. Their tofu is made in-house, resulting in a juicier and more nuanced bite than the supermarket standard. Their blood sausage—plum-hued and melt-in-the-mouth—is likewise handcrafted with care.

At the center of it all remains mắm tôm, a fermented shrimp paste that’s pungent, polarizing, and proudly Vietnamese. For diners unacquainted with its funk, it might be challenging. But that’s precisely the point: Mắm was never meant to be safe or predictable. Instead, it offers a culinary passport to Northern Vietnam, where bold flavors reign supreme and fermentation is celebrated, not tamed.

What Makes the Menu Special

While the spotlight often shines on the signature bún đậu mắm tôm, the menu is full of carefully curated dishes that reflect both nostalgia and refinement. Jerald and Nhung focus on texture, temperature, and flavor layering. Herbs are chosen for their aroma and medicinal qualities, while dipping sauces are crafted to elevate, not mask, the components they accompany.

Everything feels deliberate yet soulful—exactly the kind of cooking you'd expect in a Vietnamese home, not a downtown NYC restaurant. There's a democratic quality to the food: trays meant for sharing, flavors that invite conversation, and a menu that doesn’t rely on buzzwords or Instagram gimmicks to draw a crowd.

Resonating Beyond the Plate

Mắm has garnered attention from critics and publications alike, including multiple nods from The New York Times, where food critic Pete Wells recognized it as one of the city’s top culinary destinations. These accolades, while meaningful, don’t define the restaurant. For Jerald and Nhung, success is measured by something far more personal: seeing diners—both Vietnamese and otherwise—connect with the soul of their cooking.

The restaurant also reflects a growing shift in the American dining scene. Diners today are seeking authenticity and depth. Mắm delivers on both fronts. In doing so, it helps dispel the myth that traditional cuisines need to be “elevated” to be celebrated.

Looking Forward

With its recent expansion, Mắm is poised for longevity. But Jerald and Nhung remain focused on maintaining the spirit of their early days—intimate, honest, and joyfully Vietnamese. There’s talk of new menu additions, perhaps a renewed effort on Jerald’s original book idea, and even community-focused events that further highlight Vietnamese food culture.

Their journey proves that even in uncertain times, passion and authenticity can carve a path forward. From a half-finished manuscript to a Lower East Side restaurant brimming with life and flavor, Mắm is more than a business—it’s a love letter to Vietnam, written one fermented bite at a time.

Conclusion

Mắm NYC isn’t just another success story in the city’s dining scene; it’s a vivid testament to resilience, cultural pride, and the magic that happens when personal roots are transformed into something universally appreciated. Whether you're a connoisseur of Vietnamese cuisine or a newcomer drawn by curiosity, dining at Mắm offers more than a meal—it offers a heartfelt narrative, plated with care.