Marc Forgione at Peasant: How a Beloved NYC Icon Gets a Rustic Revival

When Marc Forgione took over Peasant in January 2020, he knew he was inheriting more than just a dining room and a wood-fired oven — he was stepping into a Lower Manhattan institution. For over two decades, Peasant, opened by Frank DeCarlo in 1999, was a culinary anchor on Elizabeth Street, known for its primal, rustic approach to Italian food.

Forgione, already a celebrated name in New York dining with his eponymous Tribeca restaurant and a reputation for balancing innovation with tradition, seemed like a natural choice to write Peasant’s next chapter. But what no one saw coming was that, only a few months after getting the keys, Forgione would have to lock the doors again as the pandemic shuttered dining rooms citywide.

The Story Behind Peasant’s Next Act

Despite the unexpected twist, Forgione stayed committed to DeCarlo’s vision — one that revolved around simplicity, elemental cooking, and the kind of neighborhood warmth that can’t be faked. When the world slowed down, he used the time to think deeply about how to make Peasant his own without erasing what made it special to begin with.

Reopening Peasant meant balancing old and new. Forgione’s goal wasn’t to remake Peasant for Instagram or trend-chasing diners but to build on the honest, fire-driven spirit that made the original such a local favorite.

A Chef’s Philosophy: Cooking With Fire and Respect

Peasant’s open wood-fired hearth has always been the beating heart of its kitchen — an ode to ancient cooking and a testament to the craft of coaxing flavor from simple ingredients. Forgione, who grew up with an appreciation for tradition (his father, Larry Forgione, is credited with helping define modern American cooking), understands the romance and discipline that cooking over flames requires.

For him, Peasant’s philosophy is about stripping food down to its essence — using smoke, char, and the unpredictability of an open flame to transform humble ingredients into dishes that feel both rustic and refined. His respect for this primal style is clear in every corner of the updated menu.

What’s on the Menu: Familiar Flames, Fresh Ideas

Forgione’s refresh doesn’t erase Peasant’s DNA; it sharpens it. The menu keeps many of the classics that longtime regulars love, while weaving in new ideas that speak to how Italian cooking can evolve while staying rooted.

Hearth-Roasted Meats and Fish

Whole chickens roasted until skin crackles, lamb kissed by the coals, or fresh fish slow-cooked beside smoldering logs — these plates stay true to the spirit of the original Peasant. Forgione’s touch is felt in small flourishes: thoughtful marinades, inventive seasonal pairings, or just-right finishing oils.

Handmade Pastas

Pastas reflect Forgione’s knack for balancing comfort with craft. Expect hearty cuts like tagliatelle with braised meats, or lighter plates featuring delicate, seasonal fillings that nod to rustic countryside kitchens.

Charred Vegetables and Starters

Root vegetables, charred greens, and seasonal mushrooms are handled with the same care as the proteins, often emerging from the embers transformed but still tasting deeply of themselves.

Housemade Breads and Wood-Fired Pizzas

The crackle of the oven isn’t reserved for big plates alone. Breads and simple pizzas baked directly on stone serve as reminders that, at Peasant, the fire is always working.

Design That Honors the Past

One reason Peasant feels timeless is because Forgione didn’t rip up the blueprint. The dining room still has that intimate, slightly cavernous warmth that made it a downtown favorite. Exposed brick, flickering candlelight, and the glow from the open hearth wrap guests in the same rustic charm Frank DeCarlo cultivated for years.

The changes Forgione made — subtle tweaks to layout, small updates to keep the space comfortable — feel less like a redesign and more like a loving polish. The idea is that a diner from 2005 would still feel perfectly at home today.

Why Peasant Still Matters

In a neighborhood where new restaurants appear and vanish with the seasons, Peasant’s longevity is remarkable. It’s proof that New Yorkers still crave food that feels grounded — a counterpoint to the precious, hyper-Instagrammed dining that sometimes crowds the scene.

Forgione’s revival shows how an iconic restaurant can honor its past while nudging gently forward. It’s not about reinventing rustic Italian food but celebrating why it endures: the warmth of a meal cooked over fire, the comfort of dishes that feel both sophisticated and soulful, the pleasure of lingering at a table where the world feels slower, even if just for a night.

Carrying the Flame Forward

When Forgione re-lit the fire at Peasant, he didn’t do it alone. Frank DeCarlo’s presence remains woven through the restaurant’s culture — from the open kitchen to the team that continues to work with the same care and camaraderie that built Peasant’s reputation over decades.

The torch has been passed, but the flame stays the same: a commitment to honest cooking, real hospitality, and a sense that great restaurants aren’t defined by fleeting buzz but by their ability to feel timeless, year after year.

Conclusion: A New Chapter That Feels Familiar

Marc Forgione’s Peasant is a rare success story in a city that loves a comeback but rarely gives old legends the grace to evolve slowly and on their own terms. Here on Elizabeth Street, the embers still burn, the pasta still comforts, and a new generation of diners can taste what made Peasant special — all while seeing how one of New York’s most respected chefs keeps it alive, one wood-fired dish at a time.