Telly’s Taverna: A Greek Classic That Evolves Without Losing Its Soul
Explore how Telly’s Taverna in Astoria, Queens preserves its Greek roots while adapting to changing times, led by two generations of Loiselle women. Discover its culinary philosophy, enduring charm, and the secrets to its timeless success.
A Local Legend in the Heart of Astoria
In the diverse culinary landscape of Queens, Astoria stands out as a hub for Greek cuisine. And among the many eateries lining its bustling streets, Telly’s Taverna has earned its place as a local institution. Since its founding in 1990, Telly’s has been more than just a restaurant—it’s been a living part of the neighborhood, where generations of diners have gathered for fresh seafood, hearty grilled meats, and the warmth of Greek hospitality.
Despite the many changes that have swept through New York City’s restaurant scene, Telly’s remains rooted in tradition. It’s a place where the scent of lemon and oregano drifts from the kitchen, where octopus is grilled to perfection, and where a sense of belonging greets every guest. Under the care of Joanna “Nana” Loiselle and now her daughter Dianna Loiselle, this family-run restaurant continues to flourish—evolving without ever losing sight of its original spirit.
The Story Behind the Concept: From Family Table to Neighborhood Favorite
The journey of Telly’s Taverna began with a dream to bring the flavors of Greece to Astoria in an honest, heartfelt way. Joanna Loiselle, lovingly referred to as “Nana” by staff and customers alike, envisioned a space where food would reflect the soul of her heritage and hospitality would feel like coming home.
Named after a beloved family member, Telly’s began as a humble taverna with a simple mission: serve high-quality Greek food, especially seafood, with sincerity and consistency. Over the years, word of its grilled fish—sourced with insider knowledge from fish markets—spread quickly. Diners from across the boroughs and beyond came not just for the food, but for the experience of being treated like family.
When Dianna Loiselle took the reins, she didn’t aim to modernize the essence of Telly’s, but rather to preserve and gently adapt it for a new generation of diners. The familial spirit stayed intact while the restaurant quietly embraced new technologies and updated touches.
A Culinary Philosophy Anchored in Freshness and Simplicity
Telly’s Taverna thrives on the principle that great Greek food doesn’t need frills—just freshness, balance, and authenticity. The kitchen avoids overcomplication in favor of letting ingredients shine. From tender grilled calamari to lamb chops marinated in lemon juice and olive oil, every plate is thoughtfully executed.
Seafood, a longtime staple, remains the cornerstone of the menu. Whole fish—snapper, branzino, dorade—are hand-selected, expertly seasoned, and flame-grilled to capture that quintessential coastal flavor. The restaurant’s long-standing relationships with fish vendors ensure both quality and consistency, often putting Telly’s a cut above competitors.
Equally important to the experience is the homemade touch found in traditional dishes like spanakopita, moussaka, and tzatziki. Every dish carries a story, every recipe passed down or perfected over years of family cooking.
What Makes the Menu Special: Celebrating the Greek Table
Telly’s isn’t about reinventing the wheel. It’s about perfecting the classics. The menu offers an extensive array of Greek favorites, each executed with a focus on balance and authenticity.
1. Grilled Octopus
Charred yet tender, this signature appetizer is served with a drizzle of olive oil and lemon. It’s consistently praised for its texture and taste — a benchmark for any great Greek taverna.
2. Whole Grilled Fish
A highlight of the experience, guests can select their fish from a display before it’s prepared to order. The simplicity of olive oil, sea salt, and flame grilling allows the natural flavor to take center stage.
3. Saganaki (Flaming Cheese)
This beloved appetizer is a crowd-pleaser, arriving at the table with a sizzle and a squeeze of lemon. It embodies the celebratory nature of Greek dining.
4. Lamb Chops
Juicy, char-grilled, and seasoned in a traditional blend of herbs, the lamb is both rustic and refined.
5. Baklava and Galaktoboureko
No Greek meal is complete without a sweet finish. Telly’s desserts are made in-house and offer a nostalgic, honey-laced finale.
To complement the food, the wine list includes a selection of Greek imports and local favorites. A glass of Assyrtiko or a bottle of Retsina completes the Mediterranean escape.
Two Generations of Hospitality: From Nana to Dianna
The heart of Telly’s Taverna has always been its people. Joanna “Nana” Loiselle built the foundation through a hands-on approach—chatting with customers, making menu suggestions, and treating every diner with affection. Her warmth earned loyalty that no marketing campaign could match.
Now, her daughter Dianna continues the legacy with a clear understanding of what makes Telly’s special. Under her leadership, the restaurant has gently expanded its reach, embraced social media, streamlined reservations, and upgraded elements of the dining room—all while keeping the essence unchanged.
Dianna sees her role not just as an owner, but as a caretaker of memories and traditions. She’s aware that the regulars who once came with their parents are now bringing their own children. That kind of generational loyalty doesn’t happen by chance—it’s nurtured through consistency and care.
Balancing Tradition and Modernity in a Changing City
Running a family restaurant in New York isn’t without its challenges. Rising rents, changing tastes, and growing competition mean that every decision must be strategic. But Telly’s has endured by being responsive without compromising.
Dianna’s subtle innovations—like improving the reservation system, refining the wine pairings, or offering seasonal specials—help keep the restaurant current. Yet the core philosophy remains: stay true to Greek roots, serve with heart, and never cut corners.
As food trends come and go, Telly’s offers something enduring: a place where hospitality feels personal, and where flavors transport diners to a sunlit table in the Greek isles. That emotional connection is what keeps tables full and hearts full too.
Conclusion: Why Telly’s Taverna Still Matters
In a city overflowing with dining options, Telly’s Taverna stands tall because it never forgets who it is. It’s a love letter to Greek culture, passed from one generation to the next, expressed through charred seafood, zesty salads, and flaky pastries.
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