Jaba NYC: Chef Tony Inn’s Elegant Ode to Taiwanese Cuisine

Jaba, the first solo venture from Chef Tony Inn, redefines Taiwanese dining in NYC with elevated dishes like fried pig ears, salt-cured whole mackerel, and sweet potato crème brûlée. Step into a refined, soulful take on modern Taiwanese cuisine.

May 17, 2025 - 02:12
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Jaba NYC: Chef Tony Inn’s Elegant Ode to Taiwanese Cuisine
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Introducing Jaba: NYC’s Most Sophisticated Take on Taiwanese Cuisine

In a city with endless culinary options, it’s not easy to introduce something truly fresh — but Jaba, the debut solo venture from acclaimed chef Tony Inn, manages to do just that.

Located in a softly lit, minimalist-chic space in downtown Manhattan, Jaba brings Taiwanese cuisine into the fine dining spotlight. It’s not flashy or overhyped. Instead, it’s thoughtful, deeply rooted, and incredibly flavorful — an expression of identity, memory, and meticulous craft.

The name JabaTaiwanese slang for “eat until full” — is as much a cultural nod as it is an invitation. And from your first bite to your final spoonful, that’s exactly what this place encourages: a full-hearted, full-bellied, unforgettable experience.


About the Chef: Tony Inn’s Culinary Evolution

Chef Tony Inn is no stranger to perfection. With a culinary résumé that includes time at Masa (a three-Michelin-star Japanese temple) and Kin Gin (a cult favorite blending Japanese-Korean styles), his technical mastery is unquestionable.

But Jaba is different. It’s personal. This is Tony’s return to his rootsbut reimagined through the lens of his fine-dining pedigree. Here, Taiwanese flavors are rendered with precision, care, and modern elegance. This isn’t street food or nostalgia-for-nostalgia’s sake. It’s a new culinary languageone that pays homage to heritage while boldly redefining it.


Step Inside: A Warm, Minimalist Welcome

The restaurant’s design is striking in its simplicity. Pale wood, soft pendant lighting, and gentle curves define the space. Earthy ceramics and natural textures bring warmth, while open kitchen views allow diners to witness the calm, intentional choreography of Tony and his team.

It’s a place for lingering, for engaging with your senses, and for letting go of the outside world. Whether you're seated at the sleek chef’s counter or nestled in a cozy booth with friends, Jaba feels intimate, elegant, and grounded.


The Menu: A Story Told Through Flavors

Jaba’s menu isn’t long, but it doesn’t need to be. Each dish is a chapter in Chef Tony’s personal and cultural story, unfolding with every bite. Built on seasonal ingredients, traditional Taiwanese flavors, and elevated culinary technique, the menu shifts often but centers around a few unforgettable highlights.


Starters & Small Plates: Thoughtful Introductions

Fried Pig Ears with Kewpie Mayo

Crispy, thinly sliced pig ears served golden-brown with a side of creamy, tangy Japanese Kewpie mayo. The texture is exceptional — chewy meets crunchywhile the richness of the mayo tempers the boldness. It's a dish that balances comfort with curiosity, inviting you to lean in and trust what’s next.

Daikon & XO Sauce Dumplings

Silken dumplings filled with daikon and umami-packed XO sauce, served in a dashi broth spiked with fermented chili. The wrappers are so delicate they practically melt, while the interior bursts with heat, smoke, and savory depth.

Oyster Mushrooms with Charred Scallion Oil

Earthy and meaty, these grilled mushrooms are finished with a scallion oil that evokes Taiwanese night markets — smoky, aromatic, and deeply satisfying.


Main Dishes: Artful, Generous, and Unexpected

Salt-Cured Whole Mackerel

A show-stopping dish both in presentation and flavor. The mackerel is cured in sea salt and citrus peel, grilled until crispy-skinned, then served with pickled radish slaw and a drizzle of black vinegar reduction. It’s bold yet balanced — a perfect harmony of salt, acid, and fat.

Beef Noodle Soup, Reimagined

Jaba’s take on this Taiwanese classic strips it down and rebuilds it into something wholly refined. Hand-pulled noodles, a clear but complex beef broth, braised shank slices, and a soy-cured egg come together in a bowl that manages to feel both rustic and luxurious.

Sticky Rice with Smoked Duck

Layered with lap cheong (Chinese sausage), fried shallots, shiitake, and smoked duck breast, this dish feels celebratory and deeply rooted in tradition. The rice is pressed into a cast iron dish for crispy edges and soft center — it’s comforting, rich, and absolutely addictive.


Desserts: A Sweet Subversion of Expectations

Sweet Potato Crème Brûlée

Instead of custard, this playful twist uses whipped Japanese sweet potato as its creamy base. Topped with a perfectly torched sugar crust and garnished with black sesame brittle, it’s one of the most surprising and delightful finishes to a meal you’ll ever have.

Black Sugar Pudding with Ginger Foam

Molasses-like Taiwanese black sugar provides the base for this delicate pudding, while an airy ginger foam adds heat and fragrance. It’s a dessert that manages to be decadent, light, and deeply rooted in Taiwanese flavors.


Drinks: Sake, Tea & Taiwanese-Inspired Cocktails

Jaba’s beverage program is carefully curated and distinct. It includes:

  • Low-ABV cocktails inspired by Taiwanese tea culture

  • Oolong Gin & Tonic with citrus bitters and a sprig of basil

  • Plum Vinegar Spritz with sparkling wine and smoked salt

  • Housemade Kumquat Shrub with soda and mint

There’s also a tight sake list, some natural wines, and cold-brewed high-mountain teas served in elegant glassware — another nod to Taiwan’s celebrated tea traditions.


Service: Thoughtful and Informative

The service at Jaba is what you’d expect from a team led by a chef who’s worked in Michelin-starred kitchens — but it’s warm, never stiff. Staff take time to explain dishes, ingredients, and origins without pretension. Their knowledge helps ground the innovative plating in cultural authenticity, helping guests feel both informed and welcomed.


Perfect For:

  • Date Nights: Dim lighting, intimate seating, and a menu meant for exploration

  • Solo Dining: Sit at the chef’s counter and watch the artistry unfold

  • Girls’ Night: Share small plates, sip low-alcohol cocktails, and enjoy conversation without noise

  • Culinary Enthusiasts: If you love storytelling through food, this is your place

  • Cultural Exploration: Experience Taiwanese flavors in a new, elegant context


Sustainability & Sourcing

Jaba emphasizes seasonality, sustainability, and waste-conscious cooking. Chef Tony sources many ingredients from small regional farms and collaborates with local purveyors who specialize in Asian produce. Seafood is Ocean Wise certified, and the restaurant practices low-waste methods including broth reuse, fermentation, and composting.


Location & Hours

  • Address: New York, NY

  • Hours:
    Tuesday–Saturday: 5:30 PM – 10:30 PM
    Sunday & Monday: Closed

  • Reservations: Recommended via Resy or OpenTable

  • Takeout: Not available (dine-in experience only)

  • Dress Code: Smart casual — polished, not formal


Final Thoughts: Why Jaba Is a Landmark Moment for Taiwanese Cuisine in NYC

Jaba is more than just a new restaurant. It’s a redefinition of what Taiwanese food can be in a fine-dining context. With its minimalist beauty, deeply personal menu, and elegant execution, it offers New Yorkers an opportunity to experience Taiwan through a new lens — one rooted in flavor, memory, and art.

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