Chef Chikara Sono Returns: A Kaiseki Revival Above Union Square

Introduction: A Quiet Master Returns to the Spotlight

Chef Chikara Sono has long been a revered figure among New York’s most discerning diners. Known for his extraordinary work at Kyo Ya, the Michelin-starred East Village kaiseki restaurant that helped introduce New Yorkers to the nuance of traditional multi-course Japanese dining, Sono carved out a place for himself as one of the city's most meticulous culinary artists.

Now, after a brief hiatus following the quiet closure of his boutique concept Kappo Sono, and a short-lived pop-up at Hirohisa, Sono is stepping back into the scene with a new kaiseki restaurant in an unexpected location: a serene penthouse space just below Union Square. With an official opening slated for July 5, this new venture represents both a homecoming and a reinvention—offering guests a highly personal experience that sits at the intersection of fine dining, seasonality, and artistic discipline.

The Story Behind the Concept

This latest chapter for Chikara Sono is less about grandeur and more about intimacy and purity of execution. Tucked away in a penthouse above Union Square, the restaurant will operate more like a culinary salon than a traditional dining establishment. There’s no flashy signage, no bustling dining room—just a discreetly appointed space designed to elevate the experience of kaiseki without distraction.

While Sono has long been known for his restraint and reverence for Japanese traditions, this new location allows him even greater freedom to pursue a deeply focused form of hospitality—serving no more than a dozen guests per night across a small, quiet counter.

The format draws inspiration from Kyoto's elite ryōtei and Tokyo’s exclusive kappo counters, yet it remains grounded in New York’s cosmopolitan energy. For Sono, this is not just a restaurant reopening—it’s an evolution of how he tells stories through food.

A Chef’s Culinary Philosophy: Precision, Poetry, and Nature

Kaiseki is a centuries-old Japanese culinary tradition centered on the changing seasons, and it is in this rhythmic dance between nature and creativity that Sono has always thrived. His menus are composed like poems in motion, balancing temperature, texture, and taste in ways that transcend ordinary dining.

What defines his cooking isn’t just technical finesse—it’s a deep emotional resonance that comes from crafting dishes that feel meditative and celebratory at once. Every element—from the placement of microgreens to the vessel used to serve soup—is deliberately chosen, reflecting the chef’s belief that food should awaken all the senses.

At the new Union Square space, this philosophy will be fully realized. With hyper-seasonal ingredients, many sourced directly from Japan, each course will flow into the next, telling a story about time, place, and the chef’s unique vision.

What Makes the Menu Special

The experience at Sono’s new restaurant will be tasting-menu only, showcasing a kaiseki structure that moves from light to rich, raw to cooked, crisp to comforting. Dishes are expected to change frequently—often daily—depending on what’s available at peak freshness.

Expected Menu Components:

• Sakizuke (Appetizer): A delicate amuse-bouche that sets the seasonal tone—perhaps a chilled pea tofu with caviar or dashi gelée over young vegetables.

• Mukōzuke (Sashimi): Wild Japanese fish, meticulously sliced and plated to highlight natural umami.

• Takiawase: Braised seasonal vegetables with a house-made sauce—like kabocha squash with sesame miso.

• Yakimono: Grilled fish or meat, possibly binchotan-seared black cod or wagyu brushed with soy tare.

• Gohan (Rice Course): A final savory presentation—often incorporating dashi-infused rice with seasonal mushrooms or shellfish.

• Mizumono (Dessert): A restrained but satisfying sweet finale, such as sake kasu ice cream or yuzu sorbet.

In total, the menu may feature 9 to 11 courses, with an experience that unfolds over 2 to 3 hours—designed to slow guests down and allow each flavor to fully land.

The Beverage Program: A Dialogue Between Food and Ferment

To complement Sono’s cuisine, beverage director Leo Lê brings a program that is both reverent and progressive. Trained in fine wine and sake service, Lê’s approach emphasizes pairings that enhance the flow of the meal, not overpower it.

The pairing menu will feature:

• High-grade sakes sourced from boutique Japanese breweries.

• Minimal-intervention wines from Europe and the U.S. that align with the seasonal ethos of the food.

• Select Japanese whiskies and tea infusions, curated to create a non-alcoholic pairing experience that feels just as special.

Lê's pairings are structured to build an arc of flavor—from delicate and floral notes early in the meal, to fuller, umami-rich sips later in the experience.

Atmosphere and Setting: Minimalism Meets Manhattan

The Union Square penthouse setting is part of the experience. While most high-end kaiseki restaurants exist in ornate or Zen-inspired spaces, Sono’s new location merges Japanese simplicity with NYC sophistication.

Think: warm wood counter seating, neutral-toned ceramics, filtered city light, and a kitchen barely separated from the dining area. It’s not about showing off—it’s about inviting guests into the creative process.

Each seating will be intimate—possibly as few as 10 guests per night—allowing the chefs to focus attention on detail, interaction, and flow. Diners can expect direct dialogue with the chef, as courses are presented and explained in real time.

Why This Return Matters for NYC Dining

In a city where tasting menus often veer toward spectacle or excess, Chef Sono’s return marks a refreshing commitment to restraint, balance, and quiet excellence.

His reentry into the scene signals more than just a restaurant launch—it’s a restoration of one of New York’s most respected culinary voices, offering a model of hospitality that values harmony over hype.

For those who experienced Kyo Ya or Kappo Sono, the new Union Square restaurant is a continuation of that legacy. For new diners, it’s an invitation to experience one of Japan’s most intricate food traditions, brought to life with unmatched sincerity.

Conclusion: A Kaiseki Revival Crafted for the City’s Quiet Connoisseurs

As Chef Chikara Sono prepares to welcome diners to his new Union Square sanctuary, it’s clear that this restaurant won’t be defined by buzz or bombast. It will be known for its discipline, grace, and deep personal expression—a return to form that reaffirms why kaiseki, when done with soul, can feel transcendent.

With Leo Lê’s intuitive beverage pairings, an ultra-intimate setting, and a menu that reflects nature’s rhythm, this new space promises to be a haven for those seeking depth in dining—where every detail is intentional, and every meal tells a story.