A Sweet Return: Karen DeMasco’s Revival of Classic Desserts at Gramercy Tavern

Introduction: The Disappearing Art of Pastry in NYC Restaurants

In the ever-evolving culinary landscape of New York City, one quiet but unmistakable shift has occurred since the pandemic began: the steady disappearance of dedicated pastry programs. At many restaurants, the once-exciting finale of a meal — dessert — has been reduced to just a couple of options. It’s now common for diners to receive a slice of cake or a simple panna cotta, served quickly to keep dinner service flowing.

But Gramercy Tavern stands apart. Known for its steadfast commitment to a full dining experience — including a strong dessert program — it continues to champion pastry as an art form. The restaurant, which consists of both The Dining Room and The Tavern, boasts a rich legacy of outstanding pastry chefs. Among them: Claudia Fleming, a pioneer who set the tone for dessert excellence, and Miro Uskokovic, whose tenure kept that legacy alive for nearly a decade.

When Uskokovic announced his departure earlier this year, the city’s dessert lovers responded with urgency. Reservations spiked as guests rushed to savor his signature creations one last time. Behind the scenes, speculation ran rampant: who would take the helm of Gramercy’s storied pastry kitchen?

The Return of a Familiar Name: Karen DeMasco

The answer came in May — quietly, without fanfare — when James Beard Award-winning pastry chef Karen DeMasco stepped into the role. For those deeply familiar with New York’s dessert scene, the name was a welcome one. For DeMasco, this wasn’t just a new job. It was a return to her roots.

Nearly three decades ago, she began her pastry journey at Gramercy Tavern, working under Claudia Fleming. Her career since then reads like a résumé of the city’s top culinary institutions: Craft, Locanda Verde, Hearth, and the abc restaurants. Along the way, she developed a reputation for crafting comforting yet elegant desserts. Classics like maple budino and apple cider doughnuts became calling cards — treats that evoked both nostalgia and sophistication.

Her style? Grounded, seasonal, and subtly innovative. DeMasco doesn’t rely on flash or gimmickry. Her philosophy leans into balance, texture, and purity of flavor — often elevating familiar ingredients in unexpected ways.

Taking It Slow: Rebuilding a Legacy with Care

Unlike many chefs who dive headfirst into revamping a menu, DeMasco has chosen a more deliberate path. She’s not racing to reinvent Gramercy’s dessert offerings. Instead, she’s observing, absorbing, and slowly weaving her vision into the fabric of the restaurant.

“It’s not about rushing change,” she explained in an early conversation. “I want to understand the kitchen, the team, the guests. It’s a process.”

This patience reflects a maturity born of experience. Over the years, DeMasco has seen trends come and go, from elaborate molecular gastronomy to the minimalist desserts of recent years. But she believes that what endures is hospitality — making people feel welcome, satisfied, and delighted.

Her current focus is to bring that hospitality to life through desserts that speak softly but memorably — a restrained budino, a beautifully textured tart, or a cookie that recalls a guest’s childhood but surprises them with depth.

A Changed Scene: From Oversized Menus to Thoughtful Simplicity

Reflecting on how the pastry world has shifted since her early days, DeMasco notes a transformation in scale and philosophy.

“There used to be these massive dessert menus — sometimes with 10 or more items,” she recalls. “Now, many places offer just two or three options. It’s streamlined, but sometimes that means the soul is missing.”

Indeed, the COVID-19 pandemic changed not just how restaurants operate, but how diners experience meals. With staff shortages and rising costs, many kitchens have had to trim their pastry programs or eliminate them entirely. But for DeMasco, dessert remains an integral part of the dining journey — not just an afterthought.

She’s not looking to bring back bloated menus. Instead, her approach is about thoughtful simplicity. Each item on the plate should earn its place. Each component should sing.

What Makes Karen DeMasco Different

What separates DeMasco from many of her contemporaries is her balance between rustic comfort and polished execution. She’s not chasing shock value or Instagram virality. Instead, her desserts reflect a quiet confidence — a belief in craft, seasonality, and timeless technique.

She often begins with a humble idea: a cornmeal cake, an apple tart, or a chocolate pudding. From there, she layers complexity through technique and ingredient pairing. A maple budino might be finished with crème fraîche and sea salt. A chocolate cake might gain depth from coffee or brown butter.

This approach — deeply rooted yet subtly inventive — resonates with the ethos of Gramercy Tavern itself. The restaurant is known for its ability to evolve without losing its soul. DeMasco, it seems, is the perfect steward of its pastry future.

A Moment of Affirmation

Every chef has a moment when they know they’ve made the right choice. For DeMasco, it came shortly after stepping into her new role.

She was walking through the kitchen, observing the team, the rhythm, the energy. She saw familiar faces, tasted familiar ingredients, and remembered why she started in pastry in the first place.

“I had this overwhelming feeling,” she says. “Oh my God, I think I made the right decision.”

It was a quiet affirmation. But in the world of pastry, where subtlety often speaks loudest, it felt like a triumph.

What’s Next for Gramercy Tavern’s Dessert Menu

Although DeMasco is still in the early stages of reshaping the dessert menu, early signs point to a return to form — not in nostalgia, but in spirit.

Expect desserts that celebrate seasonality, technique, and warmth. Expect familiar flavors treated with reverence. And expect moments of surprise — not through novelty, but through impeccable execution.

Her goal isn’t to shock guests, but to satisfy them deeply. “I want people to leave dinner already thinking about the dessert they’ll try next time,” she says.

Conclusion: The Quiet Power of a Thoughtful Dessert

In a city where trends move fast and culinary flash often takes center stage, Karen DeMasco’s return to Gramercy Tavern is a quiet, meaningful moment. It’s a reminder that the best desserts aren’t always the loudest or most photogenic. Sometimes, they’re the ones that comfort, that stay with you, that feel like home.