Russ & Daughters: A Century of Tradition and Taste in the Lower East Side

A Taste of History in Every Bite

New York City’s food scene is constantly evolving, yet few establishments stand as enduring icons like Russ & Daughters. Located on East Houston Street, this legendary Jewish appetizing store has been serving smoked fish, caviar, and bagels to generations of New Yorkers since 1914. At the helm today is Niki Russ Federman, the great-granddaughter of founder Joel Russ and one of the visionaries responsible for carrying the family business into a second century.

The Russ family legacy is deeply interwoven with the history of the Lower East Side (LES), a neighborhood that has seen waves of cultural transformation but continues to exude a familiar rhythm of hustle, grit, and creativity. For Niki, that blend of continuity and change defines not just her family’s business, but her own personal connection to one of New York’s most storied communities.

The Story Behind the Legacy

The origins of Russ & Daughters date back to a time when Jewish immigrants flooded the Lower East Side in search of a better life. Joel Russ, a Polish immigrant, started by selling herring from a pushcart. In time, he opened a brick-and-mortar storefront, where he made the then-revolutionary decision to include his daughters—not sons—in the family business.

That bold move not only broke gender norms for its era but also etched a progressive legacy that would define the brand. Over a century later, the spirit of those early decisions lives on through Niki Russ Federman, who has inherited not just a business, but a profound sense of cultural responsibility.

When Niki took on her role as co-owner (alongside her cousin, Josh Russ Tupper), she brought with her a strong sense of purpose. She wasn't simply preserving her family’s past—she was crafting its future. Under her leadership, the team opened the Russ & Daughters Cafe on Orchard Street in 2014, transforming the classic take-out counter into a modern sit-down dining experience that retained the warmth of the original.

A Lifelong Bond with the Lower East Side

Although New York is often characterized by its breakneck pace and relentless reinvention, certain places act as anchors—rooting generations in tradition. The Lower East Side is such a place for Niki, who’s watched it evolve over four decades while remaining an ardent supporter of its local businesses and cultural ecosystem.

To Niki, the LES isn’t just where she works—it’s where she belongs. The cobblestone streets and historic tenements aren’t just scenery, but backdrops to stories of family, perseverance, and progress. Even as sleek boutiques and luxury condos rise, the neighborhood retains its layered identity, where legacy and innovation coexist.

Niki frequently speaks about the “through line” that connects past and present in this vibrant enclave. It’s not just nostalgia—it’s an appreciation for the textures of real community: Jewish bakeries nestled next to Dominican barbershops, age-old synagogues sitting just blocks from new wave art galleries. These juxtapositions are what make the LES endlessly dynamic—and why Russ & Daughters continues to thrive at its core.

A Modern Take on Appetizing Tradition

Russ & Daughters is classified as an “appetizing store,” a uniquely Jewish concept distinct from a deli. Where a deli typically specializes in meat, an appetizing store focuses on smoked and pickled fish, dairy, and baked goods—everything you’d eat with a bagel.

The store’s offerings are timeless: lox sliced with surgical precision, cream cheese whipped to perfection, and hand-rolled bagels that speak to generations of culinary tradition. But what sets them apart today is their commitment to both heritage and evolution.

Thanks to Niki’s vision, the menu at the Russ & Daughters Cafe expands on this foundation with dishes like matzo ball soup, latkes, and even thoughtfully crafted caviar pairings. Whether you’re seated at the sleek marble counter or ordering a smoked sable platter to go, the attention to authenticity is unmatched.

Yet despite the modernization, nothing about the Russ experience feels commercialized. The brand retains its soul—one shaped by careful stewardship, not trend-chasing.

Building a Future That Honors the Past

One of the most striking aspects of Niki Russ Federman’s leadership is her refusal to treat heritage as a burden. For her, history is a compass—not a constraint. By respecting tradition while embracing thoughtful growth, she’s ensured that Russ & Daughters stays relevant in an increasingly competitive dining landscape.

The expansion into café dining wasn’t just a business decision—it was a cultural one. It invited new generations into the Russ story while honoring the generations that came before. In a city where countless family-run businesses fade with time, Russ & Daughters stands as a rare example of longevity achieved through adaptation.

Niki and her team have also been proactive in promoting sustainability, ethical sourcing, and labor dignity—all while keeping the customer experience intimate and familiar. These choices reflect a commitment to values as enduring as the store itself.

Conclusion: More Than a Business, a Living Legacy

Russ & Daughters isn’t just a place to eat—it’s a place where memory, culture, and flavor intersect. Thanks to the stewardship of Niki Russ Federman, it remains one of the few institutions in New York that feels as meaningful today as it did a hundred years ago.